Siar agus Aniar 6
The Féile Joe Éinniú (Joe Heaney) Festival of Traditional Singing is a celebration of the life and work of Joe Éinniú. He was a sean-nós singer and a great exponent of the preservation of this traditional Irish form of singing.
The drive to Carna, home of the festival, takes one through some stunning treeless and rocky valleys, along coves with views of islands and distant beaches, and finally to a small village. On that day, a major Gaelic Football tournament was taking place and hordes of young players, parents, and fans were everywhere. But we found the pub.
Tígh Mhóráin was small. A long bench ran down one wall. It faced with a long bar. Old men sat at the main bar. A very quiet dog sat between the barstools. We ordered some pints. The pub was mostly empty at this point. The old fellows spoke Gaeilge.
A half an hour after the start time, people poured into the pub. The bench filled. Standing room only. Old acquaintances were being renewed. People knew each other here. Children ran back and forth.
Ciúnas! Quiet!
The host of this sean-nós session caused the full room to hush. Sean-nós is the “old way” in Irish culture. The old style of singing and dancing. People were here to listen to singing. They knew what was to be expected and what was expected of them.
A woman, in the midst of this crowd, sitting on a barstool, began singing. The pure melancolie of her voice penetrated me. My eyes were brimming with tears. The strange juxtaposition of this pub in Ireland and the ancient memory emanating from her voice was transformed into energy. I was transfixed. I felt so present and in that moment that it was almost overwhelming. It was as real and solid as the rocky mountains that surround Carna. Bedrock.
Sin é. That’s it.
The song was over. Everyone began talking again. Gaeilge. The pub returned to being a crowded room full of pints, conversations, and friends. Then, a little while later…
Ciúnas a chairde!
Another singer offered a song. And on it went with this gentle ebb and flow. No schedule. If you had a song to offer, you sang. These songs were being offered to us almost like a transmission of the spirit of this place. The mostly Gaeilge lyrics were obviously telling stories and had meaning. The vocal ornamentaion was intricate and complex. Gentle harmonies meandered amongst the crowd as people softly joined into the last líne of the chorus. The songs told timeless stories of love and sorrow. It was timeless.
Chaoin siad é. They keened for it.
The first keening happened fadó, fadó – a long time ago. The goddess Bríd lost her son Rúadán. As she came upon his lifefless body, grief erupted from her body. The world heard the first keening.
Ireland is an ancient land. Sean-nós is part of the Irish language. The Gaeltachtaí are the guardians of the soul of Ireland.
During each song, sometimes people would call out soft encouragement to the singer.
Dia leat! – God be with you!
Maith an bhean! – Good woman!
Math an fear! – Good man!
And at the end, choruses of Go hálainn! Beautiful!
Féile Joe Éinniú – the Joe Heaney Festival
Cumann an Ghleanna 